AmScope MD900 last downloaded: 2.6.2018 - 2018 version. Download Rating: 83%. Windows driver: AmScope MD900 - drivers for windows 7, Driver downloads: AmScope MD900 - drivers for windows 7.
AmScope MU300 3.0MP Microscope Digital Camera, USB 2.0, Includes Software and Reduction Lens: Amazon.in: Industrial & Scientific. ToupCam driver and application for Windows. ToupCam driver and application download packages. A package including the ToupCam camera driver and dll supporting. Download the latest drivers for your AmScope MD800E to keep your Computer up-to-date. View and Download AmScope MU USB3.0 user manual online. MU Series microscope camera. MU USB3.0 Microscope pdf manual download. Also for: Mu usb2.0.
AmScope MD900E (USB2.0) driver is a windows driver .
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AmScope MD900E (USB2.0) driver download listDescription: AmScope MD900E (USB2.0) driver setup Version: 4.2.8 Date: 09 Sep 2014 Filesize: 0.81 MB Operating system: Windows XP, Visa, Windows 7,8 (32 & 64 bits) |
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Designed for Windows 8, 7, Vista, XP
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Designed for Windows 8, 7, Vista, XP
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I'm completely blown away at the quality of the camera. The body is solid metal and made for serious users. Completely TWAIN compliant and works excellent under Windows 8.1 64 bit. I was pleasantly surprised that it also came with a calibration slide as well - great!
Image quality (with enough light) was excellent and sharp. I have videos I've recorded with it on the Amscope M620B.
There are some false reviews that say the camera is flawed or has a 'crayon' effect on every image - this is complete nonsense! These users do not understand the software settings & that its an effect of the lenses and chromatic aberrations being exaggerated by NOT having the softwares very easy AUTO or DEFAULT settings turned on.
There are settings within the software that all need to be set to DEFAULT when your first setting the camera up. Yes you can blow out highlights, adjust the histogram (blacks/mid points/highlights), solarize, invert the image - all these settings are to help your subject become more pronounced if it is difficult to see and when your going to take a snapshot or video (which are easy as pie to do). BTW video is recorded in WMV or H.264 mpeg4 (preferred).
As you close your aperture in your condenser more and more your depth of field becomes greater and you can see a greater range of subject for instance in a water drop you can see deeper in a sense. The trade off of having it closed too much is that you get some ringing around your subject, so back off the aperture slightly until it goes away and your subject is perfect. The camera (which is constantly trying to adjust for varying lighting) may inadvertently exaggerate some of this ringing. Always go to white balance and click 'white balance' and you will have a neutral image (not warm not blue) as well. Always leave your color adjustments at default when looking at a new slide.
If you dont believe me I've uploaded several videos directly taken off the camera (un edited or changed).
So you be the judge. BTW the video will record about 10fps (which is sufficient) at maximum resolution. I highly recommend leaving all settings maxed out as the cameras frame rate appears unchanged at lower settings and there is a huge sharpness loss at lower resolutions. And if your having trouble with seeing the image - at the top of the screen you'll see a drop down list with percentages - this is the image being scaled on your screen - just select 'fit to window. You CAN go full screen as well.
Here are the videos I took with the MU300:
http://youtu.be/ohr7W9v4jU4
http://youtu.be/CYviRxOpQWM
http://youtu.be/Mj3MT1Olpm4
Image quality (with enough light) was excellent and sharp. I have videos I've recorded with it on the Amscope M620B.
There are some false reviews that say the camera is flawed or has a 'crayon' effect on every image - this is complete nonsense! These users do not understand the software settings & that its an effect of the lenses and chromatic aberrations being exaggerated by NOT having the softwares very easy AUTO or DEFAULT settings turned on.
There are settings within the software that all need to be set to DEFAULT when your first setting the camera up. Yes you can blow out highlights, adjust the histogram (blacks/mid points/highlights), solarize, invert the image - all these settings are to help your subject become more pronounced if it is difficult to see and when your going to take a snapshot or video (which are easy as pie to do). BTW video is recorded in WMV or H.264 mpeg4 (preferred).
As you close your aperture in your condenser more and more your depth of field becomes greater and you can see a greater range of subject for instance in a water drop you can see deeper in a sense. The trade off of having it closed too much is that you get some ringing around your subject, so back off the aperture slightly until it goes away and your subject is perfect. The camera (which is constantly trying to adjust for varying lighting) may inadvertently exaggerate some of this ringing. Always go to white balance and click 'white balance' and you will have a neutral image (not warm not blue) as well. Always leave your color adjustments at default when looking at a new slide.
If you dont believe me I've uploaded several videos directly taken off the camera (un edited or changed).
So you be the judge. BTW the video will record about 10fps (which is sufficient) at maximum resolution. I highly recommend leaving all settings maxed out as the cameras frame rate appears unchanged at lower settings and there is a huge sharpness loss at lower resolutions. And if your having trouble with seeing the image - at the top of the screen you'll see a drop down list with percentages - this is the image being scaled on your screen - just select 'fit to window. You CAN go full screen as well.
Here are the videos I took with the MU300:
http://youtu.be/ohr7W9v4jU4
http://youtu.be/CYviRxOpQWM
http://youtu.be/Mj3MT1Olpm4